What to see in Selcuk, the small town next to Ephesus

Selcuk is the town a mile from the Ephesus gate, and the night before our Ephesus day is spent either here or in Kusadasi on the coast. If you have the evening free, Selcuk packs a lot into a few streets.

The Basilica of St John

On Ayasoluk hill above the town, the 6th-century basilica built by Justinian over what was believed to be the tomb of St John the Evangelist, who by tradition wrote his Gospel at Ephesus. Only the columns and the baptistery stand, but the plan is clear and the view across the plain to the Temple of Artemis and the sea is the best in town. Half an hour before sunset is the time to go.

The Ephesus Museum

Small, modern and excellent: the two statues of Artemis of Ephesus with their rows of eggs or breasts (scholars still argue), the finds from the Terrace Houses, the Priapus figure the guides enjoy pointing out, and a good gladiators room. Twenty minutes to an hour.

The Isa Bey Mosque

A 14th-century Seljuk mosque between the basilica and the Temple of Artemis, built partly from stones carried over from Ephesus. Quiet, usually empty, beautifully proportioned.

The storks

From March to August white storks nest on the Byzantine aqueduct that runs through the town centre. Sit at a cafe under it with a tea and watch.

Sirince

A hillside village of stone houses 8 km up the road, once Greek, now known for its fruit wines, lace and a very photogenic main street. Taxis and dolmus minibuses run from the Selcuk bus station; an hour there is plenty, two if you stay for dinner. See also our Turkish wines post.

Camel wrestling

On the third Sunday of January the Pamucak beach below the town hosts the biggest camel-wrestling festival in Turkey - outside our season, but if you are in the country in winter it is worth knowing about.

Selcuk is on day 4 to 5 of Istanbul to Fethiye and every longer route that starts in Istanbul.